甜酒可期的從來不止該死的甜度

應當還有該死的酸度

成就那該死的逆齡陳年力

這對Ex-Chateau的90年代Auslese

就是那該死的逆齡代表…不朽也！

來自Rheingau的Weinguter Wegeler

風格踏實，既工整也沉穩

酸度是很典型的 Rheingau 風格

筆直的從舌尖到舌根劃過

緊閉鼻腔空嚐酸度

是那種齜牙咧嘴的酸

如German Highway般快狠直

這是從前輩老師口中學會的生動形容

精準、精闢也！

Auslese 的甜度，如真要量化，

往往動輒是 八、九十克，甚至過百克的殘糖

但有那該死的酸度作底氣

有那麼一剎，會遺忘了他的甜度…

也是那一刻，開啟尋找風土特徵…

1995 Oestricher Lenchen

更多Limestone，線條輪廓也更清晰

果感依舊清新俐落

那股花香還有那帶咸鮮的礦物焦糖感

說他像2015也毫不誇張

那該死的酸度結構應記一功…

1990 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Goldkapsel

則以Red Slate為主

結構帶點肉感，更有張力但也更輕盈似羽般

Backbone有更清晰的咸鮮礦物感

花果竟更活潑，些許熱帶果的踪影

與預期的乾花果摸不著邊

酸度比1995更甚

有種令人摸不著頭腦的鮮

是那該死的逆齡陳年力

並排品飲，

1995喝著如2015似的…我視為童顏

1990喝得比1995年輕…我視為不朽

感謝那該死的德國酒忠粉自酒莊帶回

為不朽的友誼、為不朽的Auslese乾杯！

Weingüter Wegeler Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese 1995, Rheingau, Germany

The 1995 Oestricher Lenchen Auslese shows a remarkably resolved structure. Almost aromatic, it opens with lemon, citrus peel, yellow apple, chamomile, beeswax and slightly honey notes.

On the palate, sweetness is no longer the first thing you recognized since it is fully integrated with the high and bright acidity which keeps the wine’s remarkable freshness. It’s such a focused wine and the texture is almost silky and fluid, with a gentle phenolic sheen and a soft mineral undertone. The finish is long and transparent, fading gradually rather than tightening, giving an impression of effortless continuity.

Weingüter Wegeler Geisenheimer Rothenberg Goldkapsel Riesling Auslese 1990, Rheingau, Germany

The 1990 Rothenberg Goldkapsel Auslese presents a markedly different presentation. The nose is more compact and intense, and most vital, it is fresher! Showing preserved lemon, some tropical fruits, stone fruit skin, wet slate, smoke and a subtle savoury edge.

On the palate, sweetness is clearly delineated but tightly controlled by firm, vertical acidity. Structure here is broader, more expansive and more tension, with obvious mineral grip and a saline, slate-driven edge. Texture is denser and more compact, finishing dry-feeling despite its residual sugar, with a long, focused and persistent line. It seems lighter on the palate but somehow showing more depth.

Tasted side by side, the distinction lies not in sweetness, but in how structure carries it.

Lenchen seems showing more mature notes with a linear and focus grip.

Rothenberg channels its way with richness and tension, using acidity and mineral tension to draw up more depth. Meanwhile, preserving fresher tone, almost ageless.

Neither wine feels old. Instead, both demonstrate how great Rheingau Auslese Riesling ages not by fading, but by refining the relationship between sugar, acidity, texture and structure.