Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1974, Piedmont, Italy 

Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1974, Piedmont, Italy

下飛機後匆忙而開
那一抹叫人心頭一沉的混濁
像時差未調般元神尚未歸位

唯有寄望於酒櫃直立瓶醒
讓時間替它整理呼吸
好挽回幾分判斷與面子

12小時後再試
混濁稍退,輪廓初現

卻仍是一種未經梳理的語言
句子存在
語法未成
稜角猶在
細膩未見

24小時準時再品
回來了
大師兄 Bartolo 回來了

倒不是驚艷
更像是一種熟悉的味兒

紅花、紅果
乾玫瑰柔柔敞開
還有令人提神振奮的士多啤梨香
層層遞進
有序而不張揚

比預想中更年輕
少了老派 Barolo 常見的菇菌與松露
卻換來一縷檀木與舊書頁的幽香
也帶著一種透涼的清香感

這是一支由混沌走向空靈的酒
由陌生走回熟悉

Bartolo 從來不是以技巧取勝
而是一種近乎固執的純粹
傳統大桶長時間陳年
不刻意修飾,也不迎合
讓 Nebbiolo 自己說話

1974 並不是一個討喜的年份
她不完美,也不溫順
少了典型 Bartolo 的柔嫩與綿密
收結反而帶點力度
甚至略帶倔強

但正正是這種「不合時宜」的性格
讓人停下來
記住她

完美的分數與標準答案
從來不缺
市場真正稀有的
是仍然帶有呼吸、帶有棱角的酒

這一瓶
從混濁走到澄明
從遲疑走到確信

不是愚人節的玩笑
而是一場時間的修復
也是一場時日的沉澱

這支贈予前輩的生日之禮
酒或未必完美
但那份心意,已然圓滿且難忘
但願人如酒,便有重啟的可能

Opened immediately after travel, the wine appeared unsettled, with noticeable turbidity from disturbed sediment. The nose was muted and the palate felt disjointed, with structure present but lacking integration. At this stage, it required time rather than judgment.

After 12 hours standing upright and breathing, clarity improved slightly. Aromatics began to emerge, though still fragmented. The palate remained angular, with firm acidity and slightly coarse tannins, suggesting the wine had yet to fully re-integrate.

At 24 hours, the wine came into focus. The colour showed a garnet core with a brick rim brightly. The nose was clean and moderately expressive, offering dried rose, red cherry, strawberry, and light herbal notes. Tertiary development was somewhat atypical, showing little mushroom or truffle, instead leaning toward sandalwood, dried wood and leaf nuances.

On the palate, it is dry, almost light-bodied, with high acidity forming the backbone. Tannins are resolved but still present, fine-grained yet firm. The texture shows great silkiness, reflecting both the vintage and Bartolo’s traditional style. The finish is persistent, slightly austere, with moderate length.

1974 is not considered a benchmark vintage in Barolo, which is reflected in the wine’s relatively firm and pungent finish.  However, it retains freshness, typicity, and structural integrity with great mid-palate depth.

A modest but honest expression of mature Nebbiolo, requiring time in the glass to reveal its coherence, with structure taking precedence over finesse at the finish.


發佈留言